tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32410153708809385382024-03-05T15:35:40.343-08:00BPB Painting BlogPatrick Bironhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13174502491348296364noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3241015370880938538.post-33367558811379163732019-01-27T10:35:00.001-08:002019-01-27T10:35:21.076-08:00Lord Solar Mecharius - 40k Imperial Guard Conversion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN95GINwOP_MJLjMmpATvoKXFfzIzvZvHjVmjr3DigByrE4ayZd8dDsYexhM8bYDP6NjaBNwqg4TuyaKIJfj_VDGydD-9ARJZWlsUYd95TRGvLoP4Xj0eER-8cVRHS3DisABUG6CfvuR-9/s1600/IMG_7102.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN95GINwOP_MJLjMmpATvoKXFfzIzvZvHjVmjr3DigByrE4ayZd8dDsYexhM8bYDP6NjaBNwqg4TuyaKIJfj_VDGydD-9ARJZWlsUYd95TRGvLoP4Xj0eER-8cVRHS3DisABUG6CfvuR-9/s640/IMG_7102.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I felt that my Guard army needed a centerpiece model. Unlike other armies which have Primarchs, or DPs, Celestine, etc. pure guard lists really lack that central model unless you go for a super heavy bane blade - but that wasn't my goal - I wanted my warlord to be the centerpiece.<br />
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While looking through the source material and lore, Solar Mecharius kept cropping up as the Guard's closest thing to a Primarch that we would ever get. GW did release a model of him from way back in 2nd edition I believe, but it was nothing more fancy than a Primaris Psyker today. Not to mention the positioning and sculpt felt quite dated.<br />
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As part of my Heirlooms of Conquest project (separate post to come soon), I realized that I could create a warlord that was modeled to look like Solar Mecharius, and give him the blade of conquest.<br />
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Step 1) Find a SMecharius model.</h2>
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Finding one of these models is hard. Ebay will occasionally have some, but the costs can become quite high. I finally found one that was just the single cast body and head, no arms, no cloak, with about 3 thick paint jobs on him for under $20. I scooped it up.<br />
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Step 2) Stripping the model</h2>
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There are infinite tutorials on how to do this, my favorite method is using a simply green bath for the model. I leave it in overnight usually, then do my first rough strip of the model using a stippling brush for its hard bristles. For this model, that wasn't enough, it took another overnight soak and then back at it with an x-acto blade to get the crevices and details as clean as I could. <br />
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Step 3) Figuring out Arm / cloak Conversions</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHe_gOGPB1Y0tjJJybSXGw0nyvOS6VsgvW3SU19fqIN-y_gq6zAFc-_BfoSXqfsxLhOYX8HJpInyDTv0fGlWKxxXs9b1nTqC539vceZUCrcRoLOoQ-vR6Vv_rElYamaeVy6Bi_qkk0-WnH/s1600/IMG_6644.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHe_gOGPB1Y0tjJJybSXGw0nyvOS6VsgvW3SU19fqIN-y_gq6zAFc-_BfoSXqfsxLhOYX8HJpInyDTv0fGlWKxxXs9b1nTqC539vceZUCrcRoLOoQ-vR6Vv_rElYamaeVy6Bi_qkk0-WnH/s400/IMG_6644.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div>
So I knew that I wanted the sword to look special enough to fit the heirloom of conquest. Finding ones that I had in my bits box to also fit the torso and sculpt of the model were hard. I finally settled on a Space Wolf sword as the runes seemed fitting. I also used an old cape bit that I had to cover his back which was pretty messed up from previous builds and stripping the model.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzEQuv4Sv9CmQWAqMj7ZVZSOUl39idnIk-nhitt3-s4Tlxbn4kkKZ1EIDS216DDdLnZ8t9J98Ns_Hixl3CbXXK3O8PSjaKR4XuwxFfwB1Hrpgq5-gUVwNYtITYyoDm8H061h1KiECHhSkF/s1600/IMG_6645.jpeg" imageanchor="1"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjguTOVoRJn1jZ2vCps6PLROSaou4Sfp8yQagJIPppODZVIqeMxCCqzGaHLq3mtUNFb3eq0qZo_iynW4L2qfWaJ5gtoro8i5VwamGWHnR8RgYd0y5dEFFCEBHFByywwf6aSb6fOJEdexyXI/s1600/IMG_6643.jpeg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjguTOVoRJn1jZ2vCps6PLROSaou4Sfp8yQagJIPppODZVIqeMxCCqzGaHLq3mtUNFb3eq0qZo_iynW4L2qfWaJ5gtoro8i5VwamGWHnR8RgYd0y5dEFFCEBHFByywwf6aSb6fOJEdexyXI/s400/IMG_6643.jpeg" width="300" /></a><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzEQuv4Sv9CmQWAqMj7ZVZSOUl39idnIk-nhitt3-s4Tlxbn4kkKZ1EIDS216DDdLnZ8t9J98Ns_Hixl3CbXXK3O8PSjaKR4XuwxFfwB1Hrpgq5-gUVwNYtITYyoDm8H061h1KiECHhSkF/s400/IMG_6645.jpeg" width="300" /><br />
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Step 4) Painting</h2>
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The original Solar model scheme was typically gold armor with white cloth. But, seeing how I didn't have either arm I wanted him to match my scheme just like I adjusted my Commissars. I finally settled on green armor with Gold accents as I had down with my other Company Commanders in the Heirlooms of Conquest project. There was more than enough flair on his armor to make it obvious he was in charge.<br />
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But even at this stage I wasn't really happy with the model. While the arms conversions were great for me, the model did nothing to stand out as a 'centerpiece model', and even if I put him on an oversized base that wouldn't help as he would just disappear into the base. </div>
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I went back to the fluff for some inspiration, and I really focused on the art you can find which places wings on the character (<a href="https://1d4chan.org/wiki/File:Macharius_lord.jpg">https://1d4chan.org/wiki/File:Macharius_lord.jpg</a>)<br />
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I tried a few different GW wing options, such as from the Stormcast and Celestine, but the sizing and proportions didn't fit for me. Back to Ebay, I found some third party resin wings that looked perfect.<br />
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After painting up the wings, I added them to the model, and it was exactly the 'pop' I was looking for to make it a centerpiece. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtIOUVnL4BL_-K6KUaGH_qVi8_8sHC1CBOk2PXMN4B3SQthDQyzSWsjt99lmZRml-heSl0EGD8MFKQ8C3OABE53eb6GZu11l0tN7_EExe8-_nVzpl1pxh2WVw6nA997khRDQ_uzCpm4PjA/s1600/IMG_7089.jpeg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtIOUVnL4BL_-K6KUaGH_qVi8_8sHC1CBOk2PXMN4B3SQthDQyzSWsjt99lmZRml-heSl0EGD8MFKQ8C3OABE53eb6GZu11l0tN7_EExe8-_nVzpl1pxh2WVw6nA997khRDQ_uzCpm4PjA/s640/IMG_7089.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Step 5) Base</h2>
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So I got a bit ahead of myself with that pic above, but I wanted to have a base fitting. I also wanted to have him dramatically leading his soldiers. I have an old Scibor Miniatures base that I decided to add a few more organic pieces to. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8OgOW8nzyl7HEG4FsPptmskwZwmRLLXox8c1Obs8lzBPiJxzjlhBB2oTW0xZhFQe0YAOeYWDBljwnKCJeLZCbleK3nRDDVHGEMD_iPm6ODUu9w9ZklYMqcL5M0dG_m_GcZzkTgaJ-jOYe/s1600/IMG_6641.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8OgOW8nzyl7HEG4FsPptmskwZwmRLLXox8c1Obs8lzBPiJxzjlhBB2oTW0xZhFQe0YAOeYWDBljwnKCJeLZCbleK3nRDDVHGEMD_iPm6ODUu9w9ZklYMqcL5M0dG_m_GcZzkTgaJ-jOYe/s640/IMG_6641.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I added a piece of mulch to create a fallen tree across the two platforms to make it more dramatic. Because of the old pewter sculpt design, the model had a base slot line between the feet, so I chiseled out the section of the wood where the model would stand to also give it some more stability. </div>
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Step 6: Final Touches</div>
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To make the model feel more epic, I decided to add a few more secondary models to the base. First was a wounded Cadian model that I used to use for an objective marker ages ago, and the second was an old tech scribe of some sort (I'm sure someone will tell me it's actual name). I kind of liked the cinematic feel of him stepping over the wounded, and figured a character this important would have a scribe to everything.</div>
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I added a tad of OSL to the scribe's data tablet, a few more pieces of scrub and flocking, and am relatively happy with the model as it is now. I will go back and spend some time doing more edge highlighting and cleaning the transitions after a break.</div>
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href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfSw0e4p6jOctpvMbpf896yVhLVCPgL9GoUCqzWymk5ekSRtgNwXGykKFOrSYLUtWjLICSR7rBm_cn5mSV0suQduAYMYQ_tSZ751KMU-QkAjrqbFlPss_zPcFO4LzST-yZ11ovPSckHw8L/s1600/IMG_7106.jpeg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfSw0e4p6jOctpvMbpf896yVhLVCPgL9GoUCqzWymk5ekSRtgNwXGykKFOrSYLUtWjLICSR7rBm_cn5mSV0suQduAYMYQ_tSZ751KMU-QkAjrqbFlPss_zPcFO4LzST-yZ11ovPSckHw8L/s640/IMG_7106.jpeg" width="480" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRv5aF8dV5A00AnvisxOvDl1jH48HT_8Goj5BwtPM-32n2Hkaid2tH3OOhhMYbiY-ty1RSrKEV6k3KmH9Bt1dhH-ixfU5qi5U5sgH3OWziRNHUoHtWSfDpnkdkx1IwVVOMIkHDshlNosrj/s1600/IMG_7103.jpeg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" 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<br />Patrick Bironhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13174502491348296364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3241015370880938538.post-43133480729291554912018-11-21T21:39:00.002-08:002018-11-21T21:39:13.072-08:00OSL - Object Source Lighting in Mini Painting 28mm<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUqFz_N6a7dObKCW8WAEjwFxwbm1d12LwQcGQsC6b9-nTCmlycYhdxvjJvo26vgkXDiQaT2ShrnEWwhUl9yfBpyWXzcwU-lO324kzDJmew5_qI5tRyoAzYqhGHO25F7psmn051sEosfht_/s1600/IMG_7136.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUqFz_N6a7dObKCW8WAEjwFxwbm1d12LwQcGQsC6b9-nTCmlycYhdxvjJvo26vgkXDiQaT2ShrnEWwhUl9yfBpyWXzcwU-lO324kzDJmew5_qI5tRyoAzYqhGHO25F7psmn051sEosfht_/s640/IMG_7136.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div>
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I've decided to really dive into OSL on my imperial guard.<br />
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Specifically, I want to use object source lighting on all my astra militarum lascannons and plasma guns. It is a much, much, harder technique to learn than I ever imagined. I envy those who are experts at it, <b>and I need feedback. </b><br />
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Its difficulty comes from the fact that there is nothing on the model that defines where to paint the OSL. When you are painting a model normally, the shapes, edges, crevices and curves tell you how the paint should flow, what areas should be darker or lighter, when to change colors, etc.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEislBdY4pkfvypVAXR7jRH-sl1ZEB-GwWovrkabC62DU6snL6GU_NcGuVy7-3Tk89iv5dfrfuTp84l5teXRhxf7UMYW3b263ZPA7odlhyphenhyphenix6MVgjcYOnn2tHbJE1VnDtxVYn6m1431No0mo/s1600/IMG_7137.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEislBdY4pkfvypVAXR7jRH-sl1ZEB-GwWovrkabC62DU6snL6GU_NcGuVy7-3Tk89iv5dfrfuTp84l5teXRhxf7UMYW3b263ZPA7odlhyphenhyphenix6MVgjcYOnn2tHbJE1VnDtxVYn6m1431No0mo/s640/IMG_7137.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div>
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But with OSL, you don't have any of that guidance - and since each models pose is relatively unique, you have to really imagine and come up with the vector for the light source in your head each time.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO9yfGSbRgv6spqvp8GIT3626FordYfOqvGJp3vGFKI3CV1L_BpMLw5mPvqgwiHwZZ5KAarNysRdCQ1w6JQpc8I0PuPp-HjNlOpKEfkMIaT-0bpEH4TvbXI6bwWW8tpCP8BXF0nLfiZxTy/s1600/IMG_7139.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO9yfGSbRgv6spqvp8GIT3626FordYfOqvGJp3vGFKI3CV1L_BpMLw5mPvqgwiHwZZ5KAarNysRdCQ1w6JQpc8I0PuPp-HjNlOpKEfkMIaT-0bpEH4TvbXI6bwWW8tpCP8BXF0nLfiZxTy/s640/IMG_7139.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div>
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It's a pain in the ass honestly. But I've definitely learned that the more you do it, the better you get at it. Which is frustrating when you are painting an army like the guard, as it means an observant viewer can see which models were your first, and which were your last. But so be it, for the emperor!<br />
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<br />Patrick Bironhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13174502491348296364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3241015370880938538.post-41688130430964096502016-04-26T21:22:00.000-07:002016-04-26T21:24:32.196-07:00IG Vendetta - Working Lights Conversion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjVKpWI6MEFjfIvwR9BkSkzOeTcrPJTYecE5axxkHD2KwtC2abbWViPG-Q86p9hRUjMag-VQ_gP-13x94CFvjbWrFsJE1qlzdsUiw5Z3eoabbM1QlGms28LvfJXHaL3B-1QJfphFm-eZms/s1600/DSC_0007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="562" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjVKpWI6MEFjfIvwR9BkSkzOeTcrPJTYecE5axxkHD2KwtC2abbWViPG-Q86p9hRUjMag-VQ_gP-13x94CFvjbWrFsJE1qlzdsUiw5Z3eoabbM1QlGms28LvfJXHaL3B-1QJfphFm-eZms/s640/DSC_0007.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So this is a project I did a long time ago when trying to customize my IG army. I learned a LOT from it, and while I am looking at doing a few more with working electricity, I will definitely change how I wire and what I wire.<br />
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Ideally my next one will actually have the turbines rotate on fans, and the battery will be better hidden. Live and learn.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGi5_pNF9jPSy9w-QGsaaE9BTmksv-3b3byeGvbzu5G5YlqKo-0VwRCL0Tk7uv9T7leMXGiynyLsnUu-l9LZ-ghiVHC4zelz5bUdewT-keLS5yuAcKKYJzpoDAwI17m2JlZDbip5zk3Va9/s1600/DSC_0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="507" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGi5_pNF9jPSy9w-QGsaaE9BTmksv-3b3byeGvbzu5G5YlqKo-0VwRCL0Tk7uv9T7leMXGiynyLsnUu-l9LZ-ghiVHC4zelz5bUdewT-keLS5yuAcKKYJzpoDAwI17m2JlZDbip5zk3Va9/s640/DSC_0001.jpg" width="640" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ifmqhqcEgkDdFjn1A2HPNQtlWHslUlfD-l8mhEEYyD74CjXHJEbIy7CJgvdTOX2ZKkv0seNpF6U8g3DXFxtyymOiBJfFKRJvOZpUJHED5ipb2mLqZjRApc56ncE4LSZw08-J-ddUloKC/s1600/DSC_0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ifmqhqcEgkDdFjn1A2HPNQtlWHslUlfD-l8mhEEYyD74CjXHJEbIy7CJgvdTOX2ZKkv0seNpF6U8g3DXFxtyymOiBJfFKRJvOZpUJHED5ipb2mLqZjRApc56ncE4LSZw08-J-ddUloKC/s640/DSC_0002.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First some shots of the bird without her lights on. </td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbeG_26_QQyCXomOYFhVxp1RfKCsitSgViCXLusbcAUEtEsWtQUgpfPfj-2ZXLQvrEk_cTzpnxJSse-J4vupK-lUno8bzWvHKkOXzZx3ByljV_N5VWlSZ2BWcQZpRv_2pj7wrwA7xRc66Z/s1600/DSC_0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbeG_26_QQyCXomOYFhVxp1RfKCsitSgViCXLusbcAUEtEsWtQUgpfPfj-2ZXLQvrEk_cTzpnxJSse-J4vupK-lUno8bzWvHKkOXzZx3ByljV_N5VWlSZ2BWcQZpRv_2pj7wrwA7xRc66Z/s640/DSC_0003.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHLJGNVFePHI0XuTMKfN22fU-6jxW7kDqXr1WwTB74W9Uq0Ady9Q7DiC4p2ewUEDwG8n8C1tya3gw-V1NwInF68LGPFJsj1a1I3nwcMpt3U0Q6zDrbdkQj8y99RuVkZ4lYRQ3gV8-2RLN-/s1600/DSC_0004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHLJGNVFePHI0XuTMKfN22fU-6jxW7kDqXr1WwTB74W9Uq0Ady9Q7DiC4p2ewUEDwG8n8C1tya3gw-V1NwInF68LGPFJsj1a1I3nwcMpt3U0Q6zDrbdkQj8y99RuVkZ4lYRQ3gV8-2RLN-/s640/DSC_0004.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I fully painted the cockpit prior to assembly, including the instrument panels. This is one area I would change, in that I think a light needs to be in the panels giving a glow to the pilots faces. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh40WVnsi5bLM8qD_p9kaD1_tyR7jYvSFIBkqrHTWFp_ToFnlq5gYsNqZTb3at64uGCrcOQbM2tuWl5Dbu6S6Vg8DlxuMVSe08VZpHRbp9viEV9zroPvgwdh2bskOOSFQ_JBNYgoXixenBy/s1600/DSC_0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh40WVnsi5bLM8qD_p9kaD1_tyR7jYvSFIBkqrHTWFp_ToFnlq5gYsNqZTb3at64uGCrcOQbM2tuWl5Dbu6S6Vg8DlxuMVSe08VZpHRbp9viEV9zroPvgwdh2bskOOSFQ_JBNYgoXixenBy/s640/DSC_0005.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simple, poster board counterweight on the base</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD3lPPDoOUmu7SL9TZsrKckFrX_zge0YATPi8BiEUnB4Ek8zs-2Wmk8Ie6iYPqRslFMXu6zPbrLVhsczU7G3LYt_Rlj6yP3-nhw1gNi89ZDu-nESNFit-CiDwubv9Bm_OCLX_JLFLrNIdn/s1600/DSC_0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD3lPPDoOUmu7SL9TZsrKckFrX_zge0YATPi8BiEUnB4Ek8zs-2Wmk8Ie6iYPqRslFMXu6zPbrLVhsczU7G3LYt_Rlj6yP3-nhw1gNi89ZDu-nESNFit-CiDwubv9Bm_OCLX_JLFLrNIdn/s640/DSC_0006.jpg" width="622" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And now with lights on</td></tr>
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<br />Patrick Bironhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13174502491348296364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3241015370880938538.post-75631224076475056872016-04-21T22:45:00.000-07:002016-04-24T19:46:39.352-07:00Underwater Skitarii Conversion: Cult Neptune WIP<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrMpWRf4c6vpFzmd2p99JGyN6K2MJWVmRTKu2N6xyqQ2agnPFR5g92vyWCu3vPdr-XtBo3n751hUqttmwdCS_mvaEw1miu63cunYxCdS9vZWOXwdjJhangjqBbgdKwQJ4iqjkZAHCbVcrR/s1600/DSC_0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrMpWRf4c6vpFzmd2p99JGyN6K2MJWVmRTKu2N6xyqQ2agnPFR5g92vyWCu3vPdr-XtBo3n751hUqttmwdCS_mvaEw1miu63cunYxCdS9vZWOXwdjJhangjqBbgdKwQJ4iqjkZAHCbVcrR/s640/DSC_0003.jpg" width="640" /></a>So I've added some more weathering (in this case oxidation) and some OSL to the Skitarii army. This is a project I put on hold almost a year ago when I lost interest with the split Skitarii / Ad Mech codices. With the detachment and rumored coming combined codex, I'm a little more interested in seeing it through as I don't feel as limited now and can build the army more along the rule of cool, which is important when I'm look for a conversion based army.<br />
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The basic soldiers are mostly a color test for me, before I try to tackle the rest of the army, which is going to have major conversion work. I'm probably going to try the onager next. Like the AoS Chaos army, I'm attempting to 'speed' paint this army seeing what I can achieve with as few colors, layers, and time as possible.<br />
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The only conversions on these guys is the 'technically' mismatched helmets for their weapons (these just felt more 'atlantis' and '20,000 leagues under the sea' than the hooded robes) and the scales on their cloaks, done with a layer of greenstuff that I think stamped with a wire mesh.<br />
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The ruins and buildings around I'm trying to make feel like an 'atlantis' ruin, thus the glyphs and color choices. </div>
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I've never really been happy with my OSL. I'm getting better compared to when I started, and one of the biggest lessons I learned was that you can't use just one color. You have to start with the darkest going the farthest, then build up to your lightest color dry brush only near the source. I know that's obvious and easy for most of you, but I honestly never knew that. The colors on this are a little off too, in that the sources are more orange than the reflections, which appear green. This is probably because I'm dry brushing on top of a metallic for the latter areas, and it's not working well. Not sure though.<br />
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Criticism? Compliments? Concerns? I always love comments on how I can get better. Thanks for reading.<br />
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-PBPatrick Bironhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13174502491348296364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3241015370880938538.post-64291247845072648302016-04-18T19:59:00.001-07:002016-04-24T19:46:55.729-07:00Stormcast Eternal: Finished Model?<h2>
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Back to the Forces of Sigmar</h2>
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Taking a break from all the Chaos I've been painting, I went back to the Sigmarites to keep my motivation high. </div>
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I finally have one of the Stormcast Eternals at a point that I feel comfortable showing it and calling it 'finished'. I have a terrible habit of never being truly done with a model or an army, but if these guys are ever going to see the table top I have to stop somewhere. </div>
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I can always add more detail to each model later, after all. </div>
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Hopefully I'll be able to get a few more done, then when I truly feel comfortable with the final paint job I'll move to the characters. Thanks for reading!Patrick Bironhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13174502491348296364noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3241015370880938538.post-38987757281448715562016-04-04T17:23:00.003-07:002016-04-04T17:25:44.945-07:00WIP - Bloodreavers with Chrome Paint<h2>
First Bloodreavers Underway</h2>
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Not much to report here, other than the first few bloodreavers have been started. I need to clean up the paint job and finish the layering and bases, but these are fun models to paint - they give a lot more 'flesh' to the army and help break up the silver and purple that was overwhelming the other models. I'm still painting the miniatures unassembled for the most part, which is greatly slowing my assembly-line strategy I'm used to. </div>
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<br />Patrick Bironhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13174502491348296364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3241015370880938538.post-25909545353160147192016-04-01T21:09:00.004-07:002016-04-03T11:41:28.210-07:00New Photo Setup - Thanks to Mengel MiniaturesSo I was lucky enough to get a quick email back from Tyler Mengel, with http://www.mengelminiatures.com. I have been simply inspired by Tyler's work for a long time, and while I always am learning painting technique from him, this time I got some help on the set up for my photographs.<br />
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Previously I had been either using my iPhone or a Nikon that I have, but never had invested in any sort of light box. After reading an article over on Mengel Miniatures I decided to invest in one and purchased what Tyler said he was using. I'll let the before and after shots below speak for themselves.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEHO9BiJdCaQ6SNPrSb79MUejKgEv3-2S2Kx0tJlg5oqpLS85i4gyhhg7XZRchLNx2StU-Dv8IzZDFHgVoYUNv2F8EM5ME7Q9CzSdRecJd8-vrpv5zOQ4blYU5XHjrMEzwSvJKafqG2pWB/s1600/DSC_0025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEHO9BiJdCaQ6SNPrSb79MUejKgEv3-2S2Kx0tJlg5oqpLS85i4gyhhg7XZRchLNx2StU-Dv8IzZDFHgVoYUNv2F8EM5ME7Q9CzSdRecJd8-vrpv5zOQ4blYU5XHjrMEzwSvJKafqG2pWB/s640/DSC_0025.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With the light Box</td></tr>
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What a huge difference compared to my previous posts. I'm really excited as this does two things for me:<br />
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1) Good photos of models help you pick out the mistakes. Seriously. I mean, I would fully admit the guy above is a work in progress, but it is so much easier to see where the blends need to be cleaned up, where I had some flesh color get on the armor, where I need to put in edge highlights, etc.<br />
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2) It hopefully will make reading the blog a bit more enjoyable<br />
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A huge thanks to Tyler again for even responding to me with his personal opinion!<br />
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<br />Patrick Bironhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13174502491348296364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3241015370880938538.post-61890398268461523492016-03-18T00:38:00.003-07:002016-04-03T11:41:55.711-07:00Warhammer / AoS - Using Chrome Paint<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeFSdTgao_IT_wyM9KsqNFqSRFYR2a5CxUlFZvbcbems9WbSxaEyR1aW7m6eIm7IMKfX_2zc7dc2wh8oEhbdPzXWjOeuKBlleaC1Cf8LCBBYHwSPRUHYXgr_0GUzdKaZ6z2hbF5vTs0xzv/s1600/DSC_0002+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeFSdTgao_IT_wyM9KsqNFqSRFYR2a5CxUlFZvbcbems9WbSxaEyR1aW7m6eIm7IMKfX_2zc7dc2wh8oEhbdPzXWjOeuKBlleaC1Cf8LCBBYHwSPRUHYXgr_0GUzdKaZ6z2hbF5vTs0xzv/s640/DSC_0002+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Few things:<br />
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1) Had a new baby, which has drastically cut into my modeling, and especially my posting time. What can I say, priorities. Sorry for the drought.<br />
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2) I really wanted to try a few new techniques. Specifically,<br />
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<ul>
<li>figure out a way to paint warhammer models with chrome paint</li>
<li>find an ultra quick way to base models</li>
<li>paint a 'clean' chaos army</li>
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I don't own any Games Workshop chaos armies specifically, however I did by the AoS starter so I had some guys itching for finishing.</div>
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<h2>
Starting Out - Chrome Paint</h2>
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I did some tests with the chrome paint on other surfaces, and realized that if you don't apply enough the result is more foggy, akin to GW metallics. This mean that to get the closest to true 'chrome' I would lose some detail. Also, because it was in a can, I had to do this step first and paint everything else on top of the chrome, making sure to keep the metal clean as I went up. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAoGdgi_z3CmuLA6HRdgQ_GwbpSIB5TgErCj5De408taZ2eoQr-KhQhd5sDiuOwY-m6ZO7ZIbEuJDV6h_fpXgC36qDp4RJwRjaNTe0qo6wCc2cMMAAnC1VLYsntbahitIMMThrzHN6C8xQ/s1600/IMG_1789.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAoGdgi_z3CmuLA6HRdgQ_GwbpSIB5TgErCj5De408taZ2eoQr-KhQhd5sDiuOwY-m6ZO7ZIbEuJDV6h_fpXgC36qDp4RJwRjaNTe0qo6wCc2cMMAAnC1VLYsntbahitIMMThrzHN6C8xQ/s640/IMG_1789.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ohhh, Shiney</td></tr>
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This created a few interesting issues - 1) It was like using a metallic primer, and all my other colors were impacted by this. They appeared VERY different than I'm used to going over a black primer. Also, because I thin them down, and because of the 'finish' of the chrome, most almost turned into glazes or washes... It was hard to get coats to really stick to the chrome paint. </div>
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I enjoyed the control I had, though, as a single layer of any color looked semi-metallic with the chrome under it. By applying second layers strategically, I was able to get the other colors to almost appear 'cosmic' or flow-y. I'm aware that doesn't make sense and that I made up one of those words, but I really was trying to go for a 'warp' feeling to the purple metal, and this accidentally achieved that for me. Like most of the things I like best in my work, this was an accident. </div>
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<h3>
Additional Layers</h3>
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It should be noted, I painted the models UNASSEMBLED! I knew I would have to do this because I'm just not good enough to get all the areas painted on such complex 3D models. Interestingly enough, the thickness of the chrome paint made dry-fitting the models extremely easy, and they held themselves together without glue. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKWlT1sCq_h7tLn_tvQ6qC0oMgftRzKh8BC_QKYJ2c2INlklT21nPHfctkOOgwBuBSkhyphenhyphenLyy6TcIO5g4PbTyykygchqsqZO1rG3OI-h_bPoD1pRY5of7mi-wSArK94RrrOVfdR4abmw6fP/s1600/IMG_1790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKWlT1sCq_h7tLn_tvQ6qC0oMgftRzKh8BC_QKYJ2c2INlklT21nPHfctkOOgwBuBSkhyphenhyphenLyy6TcIO5g4PbTyykygchqsqZO1rG3OI-h_bPoD1pRY5of7mi-wSArK94RrrOVfdR4abmw6fP/s640/IMG_1790.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Painting these AoS figures unassembled is so much easier and faster!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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There you can see a single layer of purple. I would go back and add a second (very thinned) to the recesses, along with a wash of nuln oil only in the recesses as well. This gave the purple a great ethereal feel and depth. </div>
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<h3>
Washes Make You a Better Painter</h3>
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I was quasi-speed painting these models. My goal is to have them all done in 2 weeks, working only 2-3 hours a day. To do this, I'm applying base layers to the models unassembled and not too worried about being sloppy. I'm then applying washes, especially thick where colors meet to add depth and hide my mistakes. Finally, I glue and assemble the models and apply the highlights only where I can reach, which makes sense anyway as if I can reach it with a brush it shouldn't have a strong highlight. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0YcPCcY4KkehzFHNPev4Fl3ebRMsuU4hRt9GFbU-v1Bt_2TLmQI_a7_dXHDJezEHC0xbqfUJDDQi6L4ufhLpm0bobppTaD7gojKzLHBll0QOkaBDTUXw4e0sLTT6r-ARY5bguhtu9mjcr/s1600/IMG_1818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0YcPCcY4KkehzFHNPev4Fl3ebRMsuU4hRt9GFbU-v1Bt_2TLmQI_a7_dXHDJezEHC0xbqfUJDDQi6L4ufhLpm0bobppTaD7gojKzLHBll0QOkaBDTUXw4e0sLTT6r-ARY5bguhtu9mjcr/s640/IMG_1818.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See how sloppy? No big deal, the washes hide all of that!</td></tr>
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Here you can see a model with sloppy base colors, although just by itself you can see the effect I'm going for on the axe. The washes will clean this up. </div>
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<h3>
Quick Drybrush</h3>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9hqoDYVhHSFuEKnuq3RL5VeKkGm6wkLrFfkYV-c2r8W_ZiG4XGAM8A9Hax1PrbQJGpj6kLerR6AyEtUVnqBxP_9Ji9Bu5lXeADakt-f_mRuQtORTlRJ5OEGGE0BYm7DBwlVoim4Hja-rA/s1600/IMG_1803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9hqoDYVhHSFuEKnuq3RL5VeKkGm6wkLrFfkYV-c2r8W_ZiG4XGAM8A9Hax1PrbQJGpj6kLerR6AyEtUVnqBxP_9Ji9Bu5lXeADakt-f_mRuQtORTlRJ5OEGGE0BYm7DBwlVoim4Hja-rA/s640/IMG_1803.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not going to lie, I actually almost prefer this model without his armor and cloak on</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkE5dgPr5Hc_40iaVB6E8-Xug0E-RUv-r_W6fYWq4qlMFQagGSXrJzag-RhfTQPleai3nMH4L3oVYhp1BbPI-vG0GQpTHXfbDTaG9heV9oiOW5vYLUKLDzPIYjODDuPybeGo-nVYzJ7U6/s1600/IMG_1801.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkE5dgPr5Hc_40iaVB6E8-Xug0E-RUv-r_W6fYWq4qlMFQagGSXrJzag-RhfTQPleai3nMH4L3oVYhp1BbPI-vG0GQpTHXfbDTaG9heV9oiOW5vYLUKLDzPIYjODDuPybeGo-nVYzJ7U6/s640/IMG_1801.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See the skull on the left? Doesn't look 'big' because the eyes need more shadows</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
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<div>
I realized that I wanted to give a quick dry brush on top of my colors prior to assembly. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhphPg3zgChsEEtIiqwn6RFF3hwXLJxhSA5FE8VxrDO48p5OLUQGNTGdfx0Gd086hYbwo2CGAT8-3XipTHRXP7Yz6yUDPq8tI3otJbsXen_cmxC2SMMDoic15EeRux6OaugMLqzZtM-XiJj/s1600/IMG_1805.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhphPg3zgChsEEtIiqwn6RFF3hwXLJxhSA5FE8VxrDO48p5OLUQGNTGdfx0Gd086hYbwo2CGAT8-3XipTHRXP7Yz6yUDPq8tI3otJbsXen_cmxC2SMMDoic15EeRux6OaugMLqzZtM-XiJj/s640/IMG_1805.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I never would have been able to paint his next if I assembled first.</td></tr>
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<div>
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And here he is dry fit so I can start finding mistakes and seeing how the colors are working together on the model. </div>
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<h3>
Chrome Shadows - First Big Issue</h3>
<div>
After working with the chrome and dryfitting the models, I realized that it didn't look realistic because it lacked connection shadows. I'm sure theres a more scientific word for it, but that's what I call the thing you achieve when you black-line a model. Where two chrome pieces met, there wasn't enough of a shadow to make the model feel like it was dynamic and had weight. So to achieve this, I went back through and did a SMALL black line with nuln oil. I used as little as possible, as when it drys GW washes matte your colors, and if the chrome loses its shine that complete defeats it's purpose. I only know this because I butchered one poor guy who now has the dullest armor in the army. LEARN FROM ME!</div>
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<h2>
Bases - The Quickest Way to Base your Models</h2>
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For the bases, I decided to not use any paint. I simply applied PVA glue, placed large pieces where I wanted them, then dipped in sand. Thats garden mulch, cork, and railroad ballast. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqQVPjdVsVCO2uT8oOdi0k_Lcu3IFunSnNIB_6aUoyzYY_a7OI9VdmTWhbMOMlcirRGBFj2oHKhyhtV_23homkA6zdvpHP_il7yPqdP2rRqtmdZ7I41qfWR1x3KSpO5elrhOy1BoWJOljA/s1600/IMG_1797.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqQVPjdVsVCO2uT8oOdi0k_Lcu3IFunSnNIB_6aUoyzYY_a7OI9VdmTWhbMOMlcirRGBFj2oHKhyhtV_23homkA6zdvpHP_il7yPqdP2rRqtmdZ7I41qfWR1x3KSpO5elrhOy1BoWJOljA/s640/IMG_1797.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Only trick is to make sure your models feet fit - I place one on the flat cork for good connection</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div>
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<div>
Once the glue dried I just globbed on seraphim sepia</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU6J1E3IDfTnH1gWeg06MIjFAkULza3dsJodT0nNbRVmTRQFvApQUkEd6Xwdi7XUQeKyPDn-E5fk2wgAlrCKtCnH93MAfOSJeYkGFuixYNcYbotc1GRmcnLVMsOijrcP4Xo6KXHvck1iPP/s1600/IMG_1798.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU6J1E3IDfTnH1gWeg06MIjFAkULza3dsJodT0nNbRVmTRQFvApQUkEd6Xwdi7XUQeKyPDn-E5fk2wgAlrCKtCnH93MAfOSJeYkGFuixYNcYbotc1GRmcnLVMsOijrcP4Xo6KXHvck1iPP/s640/IMG_1798.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">God that was easy</td></tr>
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<div>
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<div>
This meant each base took literally about 60 seconds of work including gluing and painting, just not including dry time. </div>
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<h2>
Work in Progress</h2>
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I still need to finish lots more models, but I'm rather happy with how the army is turning out. My goal is to get every model to the dry brush and assembled stage, which is where all these models are now. Once everyone is there, I will go back and apply all the final highlights in an assembly line fashion. </div>
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AKA, please excuse the lack of layers and highlights on these!</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Patrick Bironhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13174502491348296364noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3241015370880938538.post-19295243634714367682015-10-24T21:38:00.002-07:002015-10-24T21:48:58.837-07:00Armies On Parade: Trench Board in 24 Hours ChallengeLong post: Brew some coffee<br />
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So my local GW had their Armies on Parade for this year today. I was not going to enter, as if my lack of posts over the last month has been any indication, I haven't had time for modeling really.<br />
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In the store yesterday I was challenged to use existing fully painted models, but to construct from scratch a 2'x2' tile and paint it in less than 24 hours. Given that I had to sleep at some point, and my preschool boys with me today, I had significantly less time than the full 24.<br />
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But, I decided to give it a shot. More than anything, to use it as a learning experience - one of my biggest weaknesses is taking WAY too long to complete projects. Inevitably, I will always use as much time as I have. I'm a professional procrastinator and perfectionist. I also have been wanting to learn how to create miniature trench lines for a diorama for a while now. Seemed a perfect alignment to force myself to learn with only a minimal time commitment.<br />
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I'll have to only use supplies I have around my house, but given my borderline unhealthy obsession with construction, hobbies, and modeling, that's luckily a rather generous amount.<br />
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<b><u>Friday Night: 10PM - 19 Hours to Competition</u></b><br />
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I start with a 2'x2' MDF board.<br />
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I would not recommend this for most projects - the board will warp and cause issues (note: foreshadowing) if you apply too much paint or other mediums to it. If you can get your hands on a 2'x2' piece of at least 1/4 inch plywood, that's WAY better. But, I didn't have plywood around.</div>
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Next, I know I want a trench line for my Imperial Guard... And no I didn't mean to say Astra Militarum. Unfortunately my regiment is in a corner of dark space that is severed off from Terra due to warp storms, and that particular change in nomenclature hasn't been able to be defined by my astropaths yet. So we are still called Imperial Guard. And yes I tell that same story every time someone corrects me in a GW, but I digress. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkyIhFxZQgXSb32PmnL76zH_O73ZFfN9vLvnNO5Q21F2uFK-aw1H2_s5LrZfW-Ca4Iq_VP7cAUW2Qqo4owTQrGGLDsbsEEFShvlhBVBOBv32Suo46mXIhi9v7JkDWA3UYycsgpWj6Cy5LB/s1600/IMG_1326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkyIhFxZQgXSb32PmnL76zH_O73ZFfN9vLvnNO5Q21F2uFK-aw1H2_s5LrZfW-Ca4Iq_VP7cAUW2Qqo4owTQrGGLDsbsEEFShvlhBVBOBv32Suo46mXIhi9v7JkDWA3UYycsgpWj6Cy5LB/s320/IMG_1326.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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A trench line takes a deep cut into the surface of the tile. Instead of cutting into a single 2x2 piece, I decide to use some floral green foam I have to 'build up' the terrain, leaving the MDF board as the base of the trench. This takes a little planning, as you are now building the trenches exactly the opposite way they are built in real life. </div>
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I also decide that I want a focal point for the board. All winning Armies on Parade boards usually have that a theme or main model that make them stand out. I decide that I'm going to tear apart an old, unpainted basilisk I have and try to scratch build a Heavy Artillery Carriage with Earthshaker cannon on it. Foolhardy? Yes. Stupid? Definitely. Was I thinking ahead to the fact I only have 17 hours? Of course not. But I'll let my idiot self 10 hours from now deal with that error. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIRoEsw1fykNHmbQ3HuB_Id9m9t2tn16XH5j9pHfJT0FmtieccC85RFXTEjis151ySLdzbNRzeOcUYafGw2vt1yJyn5tFgiQ1GvF9zPuOaq1pLIrqyTHl5-0wSK_lgp5RnhOMqGU5BvLdB/s1600/IMG_1328.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIRoEsw1fykNHmbQ3HuB_Id9m9t2tn16XH5j9pHfJT0FmtieccC85RFXTEjis151ySLdzbNRzeOcUYafGw2vt1yJyn5tFgiQ1GvF9zPuOaq1pLIrqyTHl5-0wSK_lgp5RnhOMqGU5BvLdB/s320/IMG_1328.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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So, I cut the foam to give me a large, central pit for the gun, and reuse the cut sections to form the trench headed off in each direction. ALWAYS DRY FIT THINGS FIRST. Learn from me people. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLJaOOv_A__aiAMJhK4XphlH_74qSXrXbJnwh5pbLBAe0XMiJ8x0M1ZhTVrQvJCq6zo3ApFbto2tmS7HI8gtTo6ZcYhe7BwExxFpVT9zcDemdcYHv1IrXmpR5keo2uXV9TntMTZ8XhLCf0/s1600/IMG_1329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLJaOOv_A__aiAMJhK4XphlH_74qSXrXbJnwh5pbLBAe0XMiJ8x0M1ZhTVrQvJCq6zo3ApFbto2tmS7HI8gtTo6ZcYhe7BwExxFpVT9zcDemdcYHv1IrXmpR5keo2uXV9TntMTZ8XhLCf0/s320/IMG_1329.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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After dry fitting everything, I smother the bottom of each piece with PVC glue, then stick them back down. This really needs about 1-2 hours to dry, but I don't have that time. Instead, as they slide around while I continue to work I simply drag them back into place. Ideally, I would have used a slightly stronger foam, and used a hot glue gun as well. On MDF this gluewill warp to high heaven, but on plywood hot glue is just fine. </div>
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<b><u>10:30PM - 16.5 Hours to Go</u></b></div>
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I try to seal up that gap between the foam pieces. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihNnSdL2ogsclhZWdQenifLv8b0JNzkaV3cyNNbDlXt8nGH7tjYoAGfe59HErGpmkTvzIa8Ka08Ke8uQVh21PpaMQaUhXMCKygHEzaOaN4A4LeaRx4bxfvRuD-sbJS4ONMcFcWAodatMS6/s1600/IMG_1331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihNnSdL2ogsclhZWdQenifLv8b0JNzkaV3cyNNbDlXt8nGH7tjYoAGfe59HErGpmkTvzIa8Ka08Ke8uQVh21PpaMQaUhXMCKygHEzaOaN4A4LeaRx4bxfvRuD-sbJS4ONMcFcWAodatMS6/s320/IMG_1331.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The great thing about this foam, while it is embarrassingly weak and can't hold weight <i>at all</i>, it is incredibly easy to shape, cut, and work with even with a simple X-acto knit. So as the base shape for plaster, it is honestly ideal in my opinion. I cut the top of the trench walls to round them out at 45 degrees, then begin dragging the blade and gouging the foam to create the uneven terrain. You can see in the last photo one of the craters I sculpted. </div>
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Digression: Crater Creation- The trick to doing this without any building up (just cutting out) is to dig down a bit <i>around</i> the crater, lowering the height of the surrounding ground. This makes it look like the crater 'rises' out of the ground, but allows you to keep the single piece of foam. To make the hole itself, stick your blade in at a 45 degree angle from the outside top of the hole, and get the point as close to the center of the crater as you can, then, leaving that center point as still as possible, cut a circular cone out of the foam. And don't worry at all if you rip the roam or have rough edges - That's what your going for!</div>
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Also, I didn't worry that the cuts in the foam were so evident. Because the foam is so brittle I have to cover the whole thing in plaster, and that will easily smooth over the cuts. </div>
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<b><u>11PM - 16 Hours left</u></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfgr7U1EsUD5Ib2nTE6m_GnMz0kroOK087PIZ6VsXb7t8W95XGSQdzoyZ7u5TaB-2267oT-denlXX2yR8tVoFxaQblUmcgppp3s1GmEbxznpwrDkloMbGXkMRlzS78X4LV62jJXzlW6AW8/s1600/IMG_1333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfgr7U1EsUD5Ib2nTE6m_GnMz0kroOK087PIZ6VsXb7t8W95XGSQdzoyZ7u5TaB-2267oT-denlXX2yR8tVoFxaQblUmcgppp3s1GmEbxznpwrDkloMbGXkMRlzS78X4LV62jJXzlW6AW8/s320/IMG_1333.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQqXX5ei6cw9GaXRE6RM30xEKqsIPtoahaSxf24JYKLms_wjep3qYOsaxKjDxho7RwzqlT72JnnG0VjMDxtMddFQmoOOhwqI918-peQYaWeBciHueoZ8dkaWwkNcOJn2RFEs7CNJJA3brR/s1600/IMG_1335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQqXX5ei6cw9GaXRE6RM30xEKqsIPtoahaSxf24JYKLms_wjep3qYOsaxKjDxho7RwzqlT72JnnG0VjMDxtMddFQmoOOhwqI918-peQYaWeBciHueoZ8dkaWwkNcOJn2RFEs7CNJJA3brR/s320/IMG_1335.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I began splattering on the plaster, just applying it by hand. I <i>wish </i>I had modeling plaster, but all I had around was a sheetrock patch plaster. It would have to do, but it's drying time and brittle nature would become my two new biggest headaches. </div>
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This step was a lot like applying icing to a cake. I noticed my fingers were leaving streaks, and hated it at first, then decided to use it for something. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSiBEKE5UlatfC-t4yhQUb5zJ4ohRacVgaMKTimcQWOaMdW79mWRfG5lxBF1X-N1-rTNzNs_FF0QCqx5PLJ4_3zsvY_wossrKK9hk6knI0YXnX05iLdVdnhuUkF912BKM3_-IJzVt_c6LC/s1600/IMG_1336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSiBEKE5UlatfC-t4yhQUb5zJ4ohRacVgaMKTimcQWOaMdW79mWRfG5lxBF1X-N1-rTNzNs_FF0QCqx5PLJ4_3zsvY_wossrKK9hk6knI0YXnX05iLdVdnhuUkF912BKM3_-IJzVt_c6LC/s320/IMG_1336.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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By globbing on the plaster and dragging my fingers through it, I was able to sort of simulate tracks and trenches. I decided the bottom of the trench should be muddy, while the top dirt outside the trench will be rocky. This will save me some time, and some supplies. It also allows me to be sloppy while applying the plaster, which helps on the time too. </div>
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At this point I have to wait. Nothing I can do until the plaster dries, which I know will take a bunch of hours. </div>
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<b><u>7AM - 10 hours to Go</u></b></div>
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Not good....</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM6k8VWfyxixq5N_ZGqBvqvNNTP182ywbSE6BODrGzDYR82QN6nBB2kRZhEPSqOBMkIB7peeHNt9FzwbRPUiDjUd1hjfzN4wBS7k62Ox6HvRZaxl7tLZ0LXr138-GT79OnILmv_uQ1BFJT/s1600/IMG_1338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM6k8VWfyxixq5N_ZGqBvqvNNTP182ywbSE6BODrGzDYR82QN6nBB2kRZhEPSqOBMkIB7peeHNt9FzwbRPUiDjUd1hjfzN4wBS7k62Ox6HvRZaxl7tLZ0LXr138-GT79OnILmv_uQ1BFJT/s320/IMG_1338.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I've made this mistake before, and should have known better. The unequal amounts of plaster and glue applied to the MDF board have caused it to warp as they dry, creating some rather large cracks where the foam edges are. While another coat might cover up these blemishes, I just don't have time. </div>
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On top of this, I'm on Dad duty from 9-2pm while my wife is at work and have to watch my 5 month old and 3 year old. I have to be ready to set up the board at 5PM. I still think I can make it, but I'm realizing some dreams for this board need to die, now. </div>
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First, the ordinance gun is gone. Not happening. Second, I love to add small details and character to a board like this, be it ladders, dropped equipment, graffiti, etc. but none of that will work either. I have time for some texture, paint, and maybe some glue elements. Hopefully it will dry by 5PM. </div>
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<b><u>8AM - 9 Hours til Competition:</u></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZpXoKMdsA5uoNgAGwuu9dNZ_Heks29SWFuhpG5USvVdBbYF5JSyAggOvBG3hLdBWkTkV2BZ63EkjM5AxjE7aRsaHwpgJ2geareI0n_Y6yaLAD7iK9uoaQjvGC5X9j8OcJrkSSGmVvFq1v/s1600/IMG_1339.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZpXoKMdsA5uoNgAGwuu9dNZ_Heks29SWFuhpG5USvVdBbYF5JSyAggOvBG3hLdBWkTkV2BZ63EkjM5AxjE7aRsaHwpgJ2geareI0n_Y6yaLAD7iK9uoaQjvGC5X9j8OcJrkSSGmVvFq1v/s320/IMG_1339.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I've decided that I have to get all the texture and dirt done before my boys go nuts, then let it all dry during the day (hopefully) and paint from 2-4PM. I start by spreading a moderately thick layer of PVA glue on 6"x6" sections so I can get the ballast down before any of it dries. I use 4 different sizes of railroad ballast (fancy name for expensive rocks), random bits, and timber pieces from my mulch our front. I start with the largest pieces in each section, then next place the second larges pieces, slowly working my way out to the smallest sand which I just scatter over all the other areas. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkYWPQvYzMBd08SnN44F1VMP1isPx35f0qluTthj1OHmpGwnlqCvu-gjtfiL8hY8iq8Q0TuVb9urZDPDoWOJLZ87W70uy-Lt2Dh-eH7QzmlCDr6P-FCRptbeln7nQmFN68FdgSZo65DMFW/s1600/IMG_1340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkYWPQvYzMBd08SnN44F1VMP1isPx35f0qluTthj1OHmpGwnlqCvu-gjtfiL8hY8iq8Q0TuVb9urZDPDoWOJLZ87W70uy-Lt2Dh-eH7QzmlCDr6P-FCRptbeln7nQmFN68FdgSZo65DMFW/s320/IMG_1340.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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When done, it works pretty well. If you base paint your terrain before this step, and use rocks that match your color scheme, many people can stop here. I am going for a much darker and dirty world though to match the bases I have on my painted IG army. Some black primer will be needed. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdX0_GiMu_eBMjA4bkQQ4l2PPs_Pl-IKX-ANRjNEG2h4oXLaziniHAuiL8hJhtSbutSABc3LVx7K65Q40HZ6m3TJ8uQ9pJkquirswVfOPvQvH_4LXCza39G9in-e0uYOVxJCkFDv36h24E/s1600/IMG_1341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdX0_GiMu_eBMjA4bkQQ4l2PPs_Pl-IKX-ANRjNEG2h4oXLaziniHAuiL8hJhtSbutSABc3LVx7K65Q40HZ6m3TJ8uQ9pJkquirswVfOPvQvH_4LXCza39G9in-e0uYOVxJCkFDv36h24E/s320/IMG_1341.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Crater Update: Back on the topic of craters, use your larges debris to line the ring of the hole. Again, work down to your smallest rocks outward, but make sure to leave the center very clean unless you want it to be an old and weathered crater. New craters are bare and burned. Make sure to not place too much debris. Think about the size of the foam you cut out to make the crater. If you put all your rocks you're using into that shape, they can't be more than maybe 75% of it's size (since some stuff if just vaporized). The burned tree by the crater above is just a piece of garden mulch shoved into the plaster and foam. </div>
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Hopefully all the glue will dry by the time my wife gets home. </div>
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<span style="color: red;">Break for Daddy Duty: 9AM-2PM</span></div>
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<u><b>Painting time: 2PM - 3 hours to competition</b></u></div>
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So I notice right away that the glue in some spots seems a little plastic-y still, and I put the plaster on so unevenly is also starting to chip and crack more. No time for 'should haves', I have to push on. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqI2cgh5Rf5wJi2lCxQJ_qob2mwtgV-by7WqVopEzH_SeLDB-PiR_DSrUG2A-Udp1axQ8i0IZoyLteGhfy_hu8L5aHmOoLZ80fzU4BrYYJfb2sPYMtyOWNdzp8Y29ZgIR0wbKx7bZhfWSt/s1600/IMG_1346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqI2cgh5Rf5wJi2lCxQJ_qob2mwtgV-by7WqVopEzH_SeLDB-PiR_DSrUG2A-Udp1axQ8i0IZoyLteGhfy_hu8L5aHmOoLZ80fzU4BrYYJfb2sPYMtyOWNdzp8Y29ZgIR0wbKx7bZhfWSt/s320/IMG_1346.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq3_VXhM1bpt-utiBpY62IWtPzCMvufIaInPAZsikW15W4BN9gWuCMsUjD0yevOCvyzZQEniFLNzIfCxiXR_Mng595WLJvsjWnUn3EKgZF7kWUdG_avkcFKSC_XGJGs5p9xHciXxhZSTMd/s1600/IMG_1348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq3_VXhM1bpt-utiBpY62IWtPzCMvufIaInPAZsikW15W4BN9gWuCMsUjD0yevOCvyzZQEniFLNzIfCxiXR_Mng595WLJvsjWnUn3EKgZF7kWUdG_avkcFKSC_XGJGs5p9xHciXxhZSTMd/s320/IMG_1348.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I only show these photos because I actually loved the way the board looked here, it just wasn't at all what I was going for. (Mud isn't white, for example). But, it did give me great inspiration for future projects, as using the black spray primer to create shadows and burned edges I think would be great. </div>
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One thing I WOULD do if I pursued this, is paint the plaster before I added the rocks and sand. You can kind of tell from the crater pic, but the underside on some terrain is white, and really jolts the eye as it's just not realistic. If I had primed this a darker color, <i>then</i> applied the ballast, I might be tempted to stop here. Live and learn. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikDGDhTkEc5mMO4ZDxrC2NYE7-pSVU0jrlhZrPWc6cmnuwA1q5o2NubpyXVYCPzP44KPFXlA2AYftwvKSjMfHD5MPpi1ZmmNHsRLAGhcbRNZPKPyqj9AvOwYR4Scyt6wTWPkhes3kJRAle/s1600/IMG_1354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikDGDhTkEc5mMO4ZDxrC2NYE7-pSVU0jrlhZrPWc6cmnuwA1q5o2NubpyXVYCPzP44KPFXlA2AYftwvKSjMfHD5MPpi1ZmmNHsRLAGhcbRNZPKPyqj9AvOwYR4Scyt6wTWPkhes3kJRAle/s320/IMG_1354.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Black priming is done, and I go back with a brush to touch up the little spots that the can missed. And again, my plaster fails on me. The highest edges are extremely brittle, and break off showing the white below. Some people will dye their plaster for this reason. I should have just given the whole model a rough 'brushing' with a regular painters brush before I started priming to break these loose pieces off. Damn. We'll no time to stop now. </div>
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<b><u>2:30PM - 2.5 Hours to go</u></b></div>
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I place the tile under 2 fans, and pray that the primer dries fast. I should wait an hour, I wait 15 mins. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKsg7kIanPVmf3IGFEcmJRj8CmbCxVFgX7jV6wgsB9V3J30nXE5CeMqHphF0DE1P1dzJE_5DkHzjcQ-HZzXRcdSYCTAjzYCnvWZI0X5H57whXTyBxzSkni82Ztw6nE7XFV5cIFjN2BCQdu/s1600/IMG_1356.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKsg7kIanPVmf3IGFEcmJRj8CmbCxVFgX7jV6wgsB9V3J30nXE5CeMqHphF0DE1P1dzJE_5DkHzjcQ-HZzXRcdSYCTAjzYCnvWZI0X5H57whXTyBxzSkni82Ztw6nE7XFV5cIFjN2BCQdu/s320/IMG_1356.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I go ahead and give the top rocks a dry brush with Steel Legion Drab, then a dry brush with BaneBlade Brown. The mud I spray with Rhynox Hide, then Khaki, and the rocks I hit with Dawnstone then Adamantium. I leave the corners the darker color, and make sure to focus highlights on the top edges of the trenches. It's coming together now, I might just make it. Side note: I love dry brushing. Probably saved me on this endeavor. </div>
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<b><u>3:30PM - 1.5 Hours to Armies on Parade (drive time to store 15mins in case you're wondering)</u></b></div>
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The lighting in these photos is bad, and they're blurry, but I begin to now try and add some flock, moss, and other metal debris to the field. </div>
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To apply my flock the method I use is a big blotch on first..<br />
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Followed by spreading it out using a 'stipling' technique. Essentially you want the center of your glue spot to be the thickest, and you want to almost blend your glue edges into the paint. This helps give a smooth transition from thick to thin on your flock. </div>
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I try to put big puffs of flock in the center, then build to a thin drizzle on the outside edges. The clue dries clear and matted, so it's fine if you don't get 100% coverage.</div>
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<b><u>3:45PM - Home Stretch</u></b></div>
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While I'm not happy about the many errors and issues on the board, I'm happy with where it stands at this point. I decide to add one fine set of steel fencing around the trench walls. I do this by breaking BBQ skewers to size, then wrapping them with the edges of the thin steel mesh I have. I then glue these to the walls. While they add a great detail (and no trench walls would be finished without some sort of support) I'm really not happy with them overall. The wood skewers are WAY too bright of wood, and the metal fencing just doesn't make sense - that's not holding back that much rock and dirt. If I had time, I'd try to model some metal or concrete looking walls using particle board and sprue arms. </div>
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I throw a quick agrax earth shade on the toothpicks and the mud trenches to try to darken them and add a final touch, then it's packing this thing and getting it to the store. There is a lot of chipped plaster, and by no means would I call this done, but it is by most GW Store standards, table top ready. </div>
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I literally didn't have time to take finished shots of the board. I'll post those tomorrow once I have time to set up the board and get good lighting. It will also show the areas I messed up better so you can see my mistakes and hopefully avoid them. </div>
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<b><u>Final "completion" time: 4:15PM... Phew. </u></b></div>
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At the store, there we lots of great entries for Armies on Parade. I was lucky enough to bring home first, but I think some others deserved it more. I also think my placement was more due to my models than the board, but who knows. </div>
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If you actually were able to stay with me all the way to this point, bravo! I'll set up the board with models and without them at home and take lots more shots tomorrow so everyone can critique and comment more fully. Today was more about the process, pitfalls, and joy of getting it done. Thanks for reading. </div>
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Patrick Bironhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13174502491348296364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3241015370880938538.post-91844249638457096972015-09-23T21:20:00.001-07:002015-10-24T21:49:17.601-07:00Age of Sigmar: Stormcast Eternals Army Painting WIP 3Back for more on the AoS army.<br />
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After Natfka generously posted some screens on his "What's On Your Table" Feature over on <a href="http://natfka.blogspot.com/">natfka.blogspot.com</a>, I got some great feedback on increasing the strength of the dark areas and highlight the top most edges more.<br />
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Sometimes it's great to take photos of your models, even if you aren't blogging or sharing. You can not only get great close up views and see details you normally miss, but they can give you an 'honest' perspective on the model. This was definitely one of those cases.<br />
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After adding some more washes and thin layers of blue to the shaded areas, I also went back with some extreme gold highlights to several edges. The key here was that using an airbrush for your highlights will only get you so far - for example, I needed to add more blue around the helmet, but using celestial highlighting with an airbrush couldn't achieve that effect easily - a brush could.<br />
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I also took some time to add some more layers and detail to the Lord Celestant. First was the base, as I needed to work on something other than armor for a bit.<br />
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Really, really simple concept above, using only 3 paints. I applied GW Gorthor Brown to all the dirt and mud areas heavily, then GW Dawnstone to the rocks as a thicker than normal dry brush - focusing on only 'dry brushing' the areas that would have shadows, i.e. the sides and bottoms of the rocks. The tops pretty much got smooth, normal paint as they should be more colored in direct light. I then gave a super heavy wash with GW Agrax Earthshade and let dry. I'll end up going back and dry brushing up two more colors on the rocks to get them to almost a white in feel, and the dirt and mud will be kept dark with hints of green put to mimic moss and also the colors caused by the brush and grass I'm putting on later. My Imperial Guard army really uses just the technique above though - super quick, and super easy to paint LOADS of guardmen's bases.</div>
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Oh, and because someone asked, the base is just two large pieces of garden mulch with some sparkling or green-stuff equivalent puddy to create the feel of dirt around and between them. Then some PVA glue and different size of rail road ballast for the rocks and sand. Start with the biggest rocks, carefully placing them, then work your way down keeping each size adjacent to the larger one. I've personally found this looks better than just a container with everything mixed together and dipping the base, but to each his own.</div>
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On to the LC, still lots of work to be done on him. I am painting him in pieces (unassembled), to help make sure I can get a good coat on the clock and also cleanly paint around his helmet and torso. This means that his mount is much farther along in the paint job than he is. </div>
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Cutting off the base portion attached to his foot was way too tedious, I should have done it before I started painting. So for now it's staying on, and I'll have to paint it separate from the rest of the base. I'm not too happy about it, but it's solid plastic and the thickest part of the model, and cutting was just not going to happen for me today. </div>
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I hope you enjoyed the update, comments and critiques always encouraged!</div>
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<br />Patrick Bironhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13174502491348296364noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3241015370880938538.post-16880983290306465952015-09-11T20:33:00.001-07:002015-10-24T21:49:32.663-07:00Skitarii: Cult of Neptune Underwater Theme<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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No WIP step by steps shots for this, but one of my many half-completed projects is a Cult of Neptune themed Skitarii army, themed after a 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea / Bioshock Theme. Hopefully I'll get around to converting and painting up the vehicles, as I have some cool ideas for them.<br />
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The cloaks are covered with milliput, then I used some wiring mesh to create the 'scales' pattern. The armor is a simple bronze layer with the oxide technical paint on top, that's it. Simple and quick is what I'm going for.<br />
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Comments and criticism encouraged!<br />
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<br />Patrick Bironhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13174502491348296364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3241015370880938538.post-74097495812163864762015-09-10T14:59:00.002-07:002015-10-24T21:49:49.225-07:00Age of Sigmar: Stormcast Eternals Army Painting WIP - Celestant DragonWhile most of the ScE army is the same painting wise, the Celestant's dragon poses a unique palate opportunity, as well as a much more rough and colorful option. Doing so helps draw attention to the Lord, and helps also distinguish between the many similar-looking models in a ScE army.<br />
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Note:<br />
In my personal opinion, you have to choose whether you want the rider or the mount to be the focus on your model. While a large enough model can have multiple points of focus, from a distance your color choices and paint scheme will draw the eyes to one point first.<br />
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For me, the model is about the Lord, and not the dragon. Knowing that the LC's armor was the light, airy-esque blue gold I'd started I wanted the dragon to fit into that scheme while also being a darker color. This way the super bright highlights on the help of the LC would be the main focal point. At the same time, the dragon couldn't be too dark, nor too contrasting a color, otherwise it would draw attention for the opposite reason as above.<br />
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<b><u>Step 1: Basing Black and Washing Burgundy</u></b><br />
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Knowing I wanted the model to be darker than the LC, I went back and painted over all the skin area with black. I then mixed a custom wash of red / blue / purple to create a deep burgundy color. It look rather intense in this picture, and it also is still wet so it looks glossy. But the main effect here is what I wanted - The darkest parts of the dragon will be this color, wash with some Nuln Oil, and my layers will be thinned down enough to show this color through. </div>
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<u style="font-weight: bold;">Note on skin and base colors: </u> Lots of people don't know this, but the reason that some painters can achieve super realistic skin and flesh tones is because of the undercoat. By applying red, blue, yellow, or green to the model, you can drastically change the look and feel of the creatures skin. For healthy, 'good' characters some form of red or pink is a great choice. For dead characters blue works great, and for rotting characters green works well. Doing this gives the skin a feeling of 'depth' which you can't achieve in a single layer. Anyways...</div>
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After the red based dried I began picking out the transitions. The more transitions (i.e. colors) you can get on a model such as a dragon, the more 'realistic' and beautiful the model becomes. This is achieved through washes, layers, and dry brushing. </div>
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I played around with colors in the palate I am using, and decided I wanted the beast to go from the red base, to a brown I'm using the leather of the models, to a 50/50 brown teal, to a teal which goes with the armor well. Using very thin paint and lots of reducer helps make sure that your paints don't dry too quickly but also don't become washes. We want the tops highlighted in the scales, not the recesses, so either don't thin you paint so much it runs, just enough so that it would take two or more coats to cover well - this way the base coat is showing through. </div>
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After working through the colors, from bottom to top, I have the model at a stopping point. I also went through and repainted the horns, cloth, and other areas that were over-sprayed with my original base grey color. </div>
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I also did some work on the base at this point, BEFORE FINAL HIGHLIGHTS, as the angle of the model is slightly different than it is intended out of the box. I also will need to add the rider before final highlights are done, as all these things influence the strength and location of those highlights. I will cut the foot off the supplied base / rock thing it comes on, and paint the base separately (again without final highlights), then put it all back together. </div>
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I'll cover the base creation technique in a separate post. </div>
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The whole model will now get a wash with Nuln Oil to give it some black linking, which will have a big impact on the areas where the armor meets the cloth and scales. Now to let the base dry a bit before I cut the dragon off and proceed. </div>
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I hope you enjoyed this WIP, please leave questions and criticisms in the comments section, always looking to help and improve. </div>
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<b><u><br /></u></b>Patrick Bironhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13174502491348296364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3241015370880938538.post-15828182499603563612015-09-10T14:37:00.002-07:002015-10-24T21:50:02.461-07:00Age of Sigmar: Stormcast Eternals Army Painting WIP 1 - Undercoating and Celestial Highlights<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Note: All photos are of work in progress!!</div>
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I've personally been a little tired of the paint scheme's for Sigmarites. I know they are a new army, so the community hasn't had a lot of time to develop a diverse body of work, but I also felt that GW missed an opportunity to really offer something more angelic in a paint scheme. While gold definitely comes to mind, personally I much more imagine a softer, cooler tone to the stormcast eternals. So I set out to create this army to reflect that softer-tone.<br />
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I apologize for the bad camera and even worse lighting.<br />
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<b><u>Tools used:</u></b><br />
- Sparmax MAX 35 Airbrush and compressor<br />
- Tamiya Acrylic paints, thinner, and reducer<br />
- GW Washes and glazes<br />
- Milliput<br />
- Railroad Ballast, various sizes plus sand<br />
- Gardening Mulch Chunks<br />
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<b><u>Step 1: Base Coat / Primer</u></b><br />
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I started by priming the models with a middle grey. This was on purpose as the models top layers of paint will be effected by the base coat(s) that are applied. I want the models to be brighter, thus the avoidance of a black base. This color is almost indistinguishable from 'sprue grey', so ensuring total coverage was a tad tricky, but I did it as a batch of the entire Stormcast army from the starter box and by the time everything had one coat the first models were dry. The matte finish was much easier to see, and touch up coverage was done to finish up the models. </div>
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<b><u>Step 2: Celestial Highlight and Focus highlights</u></b></div>
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The models will have a blue/silver shadow color, which transitions to a gold highlight at the top. To help make this change more dramatic I am basing with two colors. Once the grey dried I did a celestial style highlight with white, making sure to always stay at least 45 degrees above the model. I also picked the few places I wanted the observers eyes to be drawn to, usually the head or the tips of the spikes of light, and made those solid white as well. It may be hard to tell from the image above that the step is completed, but that in some ways is the point - you are artificially creating what a larger object would naturally do with light and shadows. It should at least be easier to see greater details on the model, and the shadows appear 'deeper'.</div>
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<b><u>Step 3: TMM Armor Spray</u></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjskpPLheuoA8h2iMrGKbqm03qTMPvG0oqGnfTDnMseoAbPBYbE_MJsH47YrDbWuiL8dsATWCztwhv6r3tag3x7QNiAxpeTX7KJ2vZRitBOpkKIUbjAs4KrEix11lX-hQtDIONyltokW7gA/s1600/IMG_1029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjskpPLheuoA8h2iMrGKbqm03qTMPvG0oqGnfTDnMseoAbPBYbE_MJsH47YrDbWuiL8dsATWCztwhv6r3tag3x7QNiAxpeTX7KJ2vZRitBOpkKIUbjAs4KrEix11lX-hQtDIONyltokW7gA/s320/IMG_1029.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now for the armor, I begin by doing a reverse celestial spray with a blue metallic, making sure to hit the model from the bottom angles. What I am going for here is any part of the model which is pointing down should be blue tinted. Anything which is flat facing the horizon will be silver, and anything facing up will be gold tinted, giving us the temperature feel of the lighting. I then do a top celestial spray of TMM silver, but allow the paint to also cover the areas on the sides. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuT3cP_U_kRNwPMRJBNd2qbGDablfwibku8T9E8UAABo3D21_s449f8Kfw7ISCXo1_7WPm__wMdZr6iZj_XapRH9knHHYc0shDGs524R7HlmnOUmhsp3ssP7yue0Mn_k6I7yZH92Drn-a-/s1600/IMG_1048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuT3cP_U_kRNwPMRJBNd2qbGDablfwibku8T9E8UAABo3D21_s449f8Kfw7ISCXo1_7WPm__wMdZr6iZj_XapRH9knHHYc0shDGs524R7HlmnOUmhsp3ssP7yue0Mn_k6I7yZH92Drn-a-/s320/IMG_1048.JPG" width="286" /></a></div>
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Finally, I give the top most portions a TMM light gold spray, while also using brushes at this point to edge highlight with the gold, as well as pick out points of the armor which I think should be gold regardless of angle and position. But, I <u>greatly thin</u> this gold step - first because it helps create the smooth transitions even when using a brush, but also so that the gold will be strongly impacted by the color underneath. So even in the tops of the shin guards, for example, the gold is cooler, while the tops of the helmet the gold has no blue tint at all, it is more white. </div>
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For a sense of time, all of these steps took a total of about 2 hours for the entire starter box Stormiest eternals army. I can't stress how quick and easy it is to get great results from an airbrush. Many could throw a wash on and be done at this point, and your army would look great. All the future steps will require brush work, and are thus much slower. </div>
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Hope you enjoyed the work, and <u>please provide criticism and comments</u>, plus questions welcome as well. More coming soon. </div>
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<b><u><br /></u></b>Patrick Bironhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13174502491348296364noreply@blogger.com2